|
Stok Kangri Climbing
(6121m) A fine
trekking peak in Ladakh and an excellent introduction to
climbing in the Himalaya
Introduction
Stok Kangri is the perfect objective for fit trekkers
without climbing experience that want to summit on their
first Himalayan Peak. It is one of the main peaks of the
Zansker range, situated in the fascinating region of
Ladakh. This high and arid landscape has captured the
imagination of travellers since it first opened to
visitors in 1974. The expedition travels through remote
valleys, scattered high villages and past hilltop
monasteries to the base of the mountain.
The South Ridge provides an exhilarating climb in these
fantastic surroundings. Although straightforward, the
route is challenging and interesting, providing stunning
views of the Karakoram Range and on a clear day, even K2
in the far distance.
One of the highlights of the trip is visiting Leh, the
ancient capital of Ladakh. The regal air of the city,
with its 'potala-like' palace and the charm of the
friendly and traditionally dressed Ladakhi people, all
contribute to the experience of this expedition.
Itinerary Details
 Day
01: Arrival at Delhi
We are met at Delhi International Airport by our agent's
representative and taken to our hotel, The Imperial. The
Imperial is a luxury 4-star hotel, very conveniently placed
for sightseeing in the city. In August, the air-conditioning
and swimming pool are always most welcome.
Day 02: A day at leisure in Delhi.
The central location of The Imperial Hotel enables you
to visit the local bazaars and shops around Connaught
Place. We particularly recommend the famous ice-cream
bar, Nirula's, and its excellent restaurant upstairs.
The ice cream is safe to eat, which is probably more than
can be said for most other places. The extensive lawns
surrounding India Gate are also nearby, with the Government
Buildings at the far end.
Day 03: Fly to Leh, the capital of Ladakh.
We make an early start to take the flight to Leh, the
capital city of Ladakh. The flight takes us over the Greater
Himalaya and makes an exciting landing at one of the highest
airports in the world. We can hope to get excellent views
of Stok Kangri as we fly-in and, on a clear day, the great
peaks of the Karakoram are visible to the north. We are
met at the airport and taken to the Kang Lha Chen. The
rest of the day is at leisure. Leh is at an altitude of
nearly 11,000ft, and you can expect to feel the effects
of the rarefied atmosphere. For the first few hours, you
may be a little breathless and perhaps have a slight headache.
These symptoms of altitude sickness are mild and usually
disappear quite quickly, however, everyone is advised
to take it easy for the first day or two. Press-ups and
hill sprints are definitely taboo!
Day 04: Exploring the city of Leh.
Today is your own to relax and stroll around Leh, to allow
the effects of the altitude to wear off. This is an important
period, which allows the body to acclimatise in preparation
for the initial trek. There are plenty of distractions
in Leh, varying from scenic and cultural to gastronomic.
Day 05: Drive to Lamayuru.
The drive to Lamayuru is an experience in itself and takes
6 hours. The road follows the Indus for some time and
then climbs ever upwards through a series of spectacular
bends before dropping down into the small village of Lamayuru.
There is a stop en route to visit Alchi, a "World
Heritage Site". Once at Lamayuru, after some refreshment,
we leave on trek for Wanla. Leaving the village, you pick
your way through the fertile fields that surround Lamayuru
and leave the valley by some Chortens into a dry gorge,
which has a beauty of its own. We follow the gorge to
the top of the Prinkiti La (3,725m). It is a fairly short,
steep ascent to the summit of the La (pass), but it is
soon gained if you maintain a steady pace. The path then
gradually descends a narrow gorge until Mani Wall and
Chortens herald your arrival in the Wanla Valley. The
ochre monastery in Wanla can be glimpsed through the trees.
From this point, the valley is followed and the campsite
soon reached (3 hours).
Day 06: Trek up the Ripchar Valley.
We leave Wanla and follow a broad trail that runs along
the side of the valley until we reach the village of Phenji.
From here, we turn up the Ripchar Valley and follow the
path that contours the irrigation ditches. We pass by
many villagers working in the fields and scattered houses,
all the time gradually climbing higher. After the walk
through the warm morning sun, lunch is taken in the shade
of the trees that grow along the valley. After lunch,
we continue to climb until we reach the village of Hinju,
where it is possible to buy a most welcome bottle of pop.
The campsite is some distance beyond Hinju in very pleasant
meadows. Total walking approximately 6 hours, altitude
3,800m/12,000ft.
Day 07: Cross Konse La.
We leave early and follow an easy path until we are at
the foot of the Konse La (height just under 4,950m/16,000ft).
The walking at this point gets more strenuous, but all
of the effort is soon forgotten once the top is reached;
from this vantage point, the views are amazing. The descent
is as swift as it is steep but as it eases, we pass a
number of shepherds' huts where we may be offered curd.
The campsite is reached after about one hour's decent
from the pass. Total walking about 5 hours, altitude of
the campsite approximately 4,100m/13,500ft.
Day 08: Trek to the village of Sumdochenmo.
From the campsite, the trail descends gradually, criss-crossing
a pleasant stream. After a time, we leave this and follow
a path adjacent to a water channel until the village of
Sumdochenmo is reached. At the village, it is possible
to obtain tea and there is a small monastery, which provides
a short distraction. After the village, the path contours
high above the valley bottom until it drops to a junction
of several valleys. Here we find some welcome shade where
we may take our lunch. Until this point, we have been
descending gradually. In front of us is a climb separating
us from our campsite. At a steady pace, the high point
can be reached in about an hour before a gradual descent
leads to a dusty but pleasant campsite with spectacular
views. Approximately 4 hours of walking, altitude of campsite
about 3,900m/13,000ft.
Day 09: First views of Stok Kangri from
Dungduchenia.
We leave our camp and pass some herdsmans' huts on our
way to the top of a pass. The path is obvious and delightful
views of the mountains are afforded (great place for echoes
near the top). The top is reached within two hours. The
Dungduchenia is at an altitude of about 4,450m/15,000ft
and from here, if the weather permits, excellent views
of Stok Kangri are had. The way down is most pleasant
to begin with, but a steep descent into a gorge heralds
the start of a slog if the weather is hot. Fortunately,
the campsite at Chilling makes up for the hard work. Sometimes
beer is available as well as rum for the more discerning.
About 5 hours walking, altitude of campsite, about 3,100m/10,200ft.
Day 10: Return drive along the banks
of the Indus to Leh.
We make a leisurely start to the day, so as to relax after
completing the initial part of the expedition. The trek
will have taken us through spectacular country whilst
improving our fitness and acclimatisation, to the altitude
and to the culture of the people of Ladakh. The benefits
might not be immediately apparent, as we shake off the
celebrations from the night before, but on summit day
to come our acclimatised bodies will be more assured.
After packing up the camp, we embark by road for the return
drive along the banks of the Indus to Leh. We settle back
in to our hotel for the evening.
Day 11-12: Rest and exploration in and
around Leh.
The time is your own to rest and explore Leh. The great
palace commands the city, which was the seat of the old
Ladakhi kings. Beneath it, the streets, alleyways and
tunnels of the ancient city are intriguing to explore,
and many of the local people still wear the traditional
Tibetan-like costume. There are many shops, bazaars and
restaurants among which you can spend a very pleasant
and restful day. On the horizon, to the south, one mountain
rises higher than all around - Stok Kangri. You may find
its appearance somewhat alarming, as it does look very
steep from Leh. Just remember that there is an easy way
up the other side! On one of these two days in Leh, you
may wish to spend some time visiting the local monasteries
at Shey and Thikse.
Day 13: Begin trek up Matho River Valley
to Stok Kangri.
Leaving early in the morning, we drive up the Indus Valley
to Matho (2 hours), which is the start of our approach
to Stok Kangri. Returning once again to the barren mountain
wilderness, we trek up the Matho River Valley and set
up camp after several hours' walk, at a place called Matho
Phul (4,480m/14,700ft). After our rest in Leh and with
everybody fully acclimatised, everyone should be fit and
in good shape for the trek to base camp and climb.
Day 14: Trek to Stok Kangri base camp.
From Matho Phul, we continue up the valley making a steep
climb over a pass from which we get more super views of
Stok Kangri. Also visible below is base camp and the whole
route from base camp to the summit can be pointed out.
From here, a steady descent leads to our base camp and
home for the next two nights (altitude approx. 5,000m/16,000
ft).
Day 15: A rest day and time for final
preparations.
The expedition leader checks the route to the glacier
and looks for a site for advance base camp. It is possible
that he may require help to prepare the site for this
camp, which is located on the glacier, cradled on the
lower slopes of the mountain itself, several hours above
base camp.
Day 16: Move to advance base camp.
From base camp, we climb straight up the moraine, which
stands immediately above our camp. This is tiring work
first thing in the day but it soon eases to give a gentle
descent and access to the glacier beyond. Depending on
snow conditions we may put on crampons as soon as we walk
onto the glacier. The surface of the glacier will probably
be uneven and furrowed by melt water streams. There are
a few, very small crevasses, which are crossed easily.
At the top of the glacier the slope steepens as we climb
up onto the south face where the camp is located on a
promontory of rough ground at approximately 5,300m/17,400ft.
Using this high camp also engenders a real 'expedition
feel' and heightens the anticipation of the climb itself.
Day 17: Summit day.
Our summit day begins before dawn, to give us ample time
for the climb. Being several hours above base camp, starting
from here considerably shortens the day and increases
everyone's chances of reaching the summit. This tactic
has proved particularly effective and in the last two
years, for example, every team member has reached the
top. The nature of the climb from advance base camp depends
on the snow cover. It is most likely that we do not need
our crampons for the most part as we scramble over scree
and boulders, which lead up to the south ridge. The 1,500
ft ridge that stretches up to the summit is exciting and
superbly exposed, although never particularly steep and
very straightforward. Most of the ridge is like a steep
path, so ropes are not usually necessary, although some
scrambling is required. At an altitude approaching 20,000
ft it is extremely tiring and anybody who needs a rope
will be able to use one.
The summit is a superb reward for your effort, giving
magnificent views in every direction. The city of Leh
is so small that you can barely see it. After taking photographs
and perhaps a bite to eat, we set off back down the hill.
The route taken depends on the leader, but it is usually
a reversal of the way we went up. Occasionally our groups
have descended the South Face, in which case a small abseil
is necessary near the top. On reaching the glacier, we
return all the way back to base camp, our advance base
camp having been dismantled by our camp staff. The evening
meal is be accompanied by a wee dram to celebrate the
occasion!
Day 18: Spare Summit Day.
We have allowed on extra day in case weather, individual
acclimatisation, or anything else, requires more time
for the ascent to be completed successfully.
Day 19: Trek to Stok from base camp.
From base camp we trek directly down the valley towards
the village of Stok. This is a delightful walk, passing
several homesteads and numerous ruins of old fortresses.
We reach Stok after about six hours walking, from where
transport meets us and take us back to the Kang Lha Chen
Hotel in Leh.
Day 20: Fly from Leh to Delhi.
After another spectacular flight, we return to The Imperial
Hotel and some welcome luxury.
Day 21: At leisure in Delhi.
Time for last minute shopping and sightseeing. For those
with plenty of energy left we can organise a day trip
to Agra and the Taj Mahal (this is not included in the
price).
Day 22: Fly from Delhi
More trips in Ladakh:
|
